San Fermin – The Running with the Bulls…(Pamplona, Spain )

You don’t have to be part of the running…Even just being there for the festival is something else….

Every year from the 6th to the 14th of July: the small town of Pamplona turns into a ‘carnival’ for over 1.45 million people (yup those are official figures as of 2018). .

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No crowd control needed whatsoever. Honestly. If I hadnt seen it with my own eyes, I would have never believed it.

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San Fermin ranks amongst most ‘bucket lists/ ten things to do in a lifetime’.

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A complete family experience. Between the 5 of us, we covered ages 9 thru 66. And San Fermin delivered on all levels: and how. The crowds notwithstanding; its a weekend each of us will cherish forever.

Its the combination of traditions being re-enacted, good vibes and heavy partying: all happening hand in hand, that makes the festival score so high.

Dress in all white (with some kind of a red accessory)- its the costume ‘de rigeur’.

Well I hadn’t packed an ‘outfit’ for Dad (genuinely not expected my ‘somewhat traditional, non-partying father-in-law’ to dive into the thick of things). Guess who was the first to hit the ‘souvenir shops’ and come out kitted head to toe! ? .

Hit the streets by 6.30 pm (all businesses work only half day during the festive week and a lot are closed altogether). The locals take the festivities and the family time, very seriously.

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There s no words that can fully describe the scene. Toddlers hoisted on to their parents’ shoulders. Elderly grandparents being helped along, young couples, local students; and of course the crowds that have descended on the town, just for the partying.

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The town s main square-Plaza del Castillo and all the lanes around it, are where the action is. You wont miss it..just follow the crowd and the noise. 6.30 pm to just after midnight, its only the ‘good vibes’.

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The bands, impromptu dancing in the streets, the square packed with stalls and shops (mostly selling the white shirts and red ‘panuelos’ (scarves)), restaurants and bars (the heavier drinking is in the smaller by lanes).

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Around half past midnight, we saw a considerable thinning of the crowd (and an influx of the ‘younger crowd’ that had slept all day, so as to party all night). Its the ‘hard core partying’ now.

Kids and Dad packed off to the hotel at this point, we stuck around for an hour or so more.

Midnight to early morning its a full night of revelry for those that are here only for the ‘party scene’. Several bars and restaurants are open round the clock.

Well we had come for the epic BULL RUN. And M was planning to run ?. Our viewing balcony booked 6 months ahead, at 6.45 in the morning,we reached the Santo Domingo street from where the race starts. (The race starts at 7am sharp)

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BOOK THE BALCONY WELL IN ADVANCE (unless you re good to line up by the barricades from about 5am). Think 5-6 months ahead..there are several options online. We went with Miguel of Bulls of Pamplona; and found it perfect (€200 for the 5 of us and with our own lil balcony).

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M reached the start point 30 seconds after the sign up time and missed running. He maintains to this day that I intentionally ‘dawdled’ on the way causing him to miss it. I swear I didn’t; but boy was I glad to have him ‘merely’ watching alongside me.

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That s ‘Dead Man’s Corner’ ? .

The street turns at almost a right angle. If at all, that s where the bulls tend to slip or bang into the barricades – and hence its name ?? . But try to get your balcony around that point – its a ‘vantage’ position.

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The run itself is 875 mtrs and less than 5 minutes of ‘heart stopping’ excitement.

Even to those ‘just” watching. A bitter sweet emotional mix of fear and adrenaline. The 6 fighting bulls, accompanied by six tamed bell oxen, then charge up to the bull ring, for the evening’s bull fight.

Morning main event over, starving by now, we had a surprise in store. At 8-830 in the morning, its not breakfast – you re served. Its lunch! Breakfast happened ‘before’ the race ? and for those who partied all night.

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Strolling through the old town a little later in the morning, the Giants’ Parade is a treat, especially for the kids.

This is how it is thru the San Fermin week, so it doesnt matter which day you re there. Although the procession on the 7th of July and the 14th s closing day ceremonies, either of one, Im looking forward to seeing, the next time over …(we ve promised ourselves we ll be back for my older one’s 21st birthday) ?.

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The festival originates from the 14th and 15th centuries when the bull run and bull fight festivities, were combined with the patron saint’s (San Fermin) feast day.

Hotel Albret (where we stayed-3☆) is a convenient 10 minute bus ride to the old town. There s several airbnb s in the old town itself (as long as u don’t mind the noise of all night partying).

We flew into Bilbao. From the airport its a 25 minute bus ride to the TermiBus (bus terminal)/ 15 minute taxi ride. And from there a 1.5 hour bus ride to Pamplona (both very very comfortable bus rides). San Sebastian s the closest domestic airport to Pamplona. We opted to leave our larger luggage at the Bilbao bus station’ s left luggage; and both the drop-off and pick up were super convenient.

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